Unwinding in Hayward
For guests, the comforts of this northwoods Wisconsin town belie its reputation.
© Beth Gauper
Tourists and locals alike gravitate to West's Dairy for ice cream.
From the beginning, Hayward has been a rough town.
It sprang up in Wisconsin's north woods along with the logging camps, and its saloons and brothels gave it a reputation that was reflected in a rail conductor's call: "All aboard for Hayward, Hurley and Hell!"
After resorts replaced logging camps, muskie wranglers joined lumberjacks as mythic figures.
The fishing feats are enshrined at the National Fresh Water Fishing Hall of Fame, home of a 143-foot fiberglass muskie, but the lumberjacks — many of them graduates of the Hayward Log Rolling School — still are chopping, sawing and birling for tourists at the Lumberjack Bowl.
Whether they're wrestling a 60-pound muskie out of the water or twirling a 12-inch log under their feet, these are tough folks.
Add the anglers and birlers to the skiers who pour in to race in the 51-kilometer American Birkebeiner and the mountain bikers who race 40 miles in the Chequamegon Fat Tire Festival, and you see Hayward is a hub for the robust.
These robust types, however, are not rubes. These days, it's easier to find French roast and Wi-Fi around downtown Hayward than football and Miller Lite.
"It's changing; it's gone from being a blue-collar resort town to a really sophisticated place," says Molly Otis, a musician and artist who also is the mother of a champion lumberjack.
Today, visitors to Hayward can hang out on the lakes and forests, as always. But now they also can stay in one of the region's most luxurious inns, browse in an impressive collection of shops, go to wine tastings and sample locally made microbrews.
For them, Hayward has gone from hell to heaven, in just one century.
Comforts of home
Otis is one of the people who have been spiffing up Hayward's downtown.
In 2000, after the breakup of her alt-country band, Molly and the Heymakers, she renovated a century-old brick building just off Main Street's covered boardwalk and opened a chic shop called the Pavilion.
Then she renovated the basement and opened the Wine Cave. We found her there one Saturday, wearing pearls and a long brocade coat, handing out samples of Belgian beer and desserts left over from a "club night" that had drawn 100 people.
"That a wine cave is making it here in Hayward, that means a lot, and we've hardly advertised," she said. "There are a bunch of people making their own way here and doing it in their own style."
© Beth Gauper
The Moccasin Bar is Hayward's de facto museum for taxidermy treasures.
The many local painters, photographers, sculptors and potters sell their work at Art Beat and other local shops. Artists tend to gravitate to Hayward, but so do people from all walks of life.
Ray Bartlett was operating an RV park in Arizona when he first came to Hayward to visit some of his favorite customers.
"I wanted to get out of Arizona, and I thought, 'Wow, this is a neat area,' " he said.
Now, he sells prints of old Hayward out of a turn-of-the-century building on Main Street that has its original stamped-tin ceiling.
There are framed newspaper clippings of muskie hunter Louis Spray, souvenir photos of Lindahl's Talking Indian and ads for cook-shanty meals at Historyland.
But it's his vintage photographs of logging and hunting camps that sell like hot cakes, especially to the out-of-towners who are replacing Hayward's mom-and-pop resorts with million-dollar vacation homes.
"There are no mansions here, there are 'cabins,' " Bartlett says dryly. "They're mansion cabins."
Many of the old-timers who drop by, Bartlett says, bemoan the disappearance of old Hayward. But it's newcomers who have rescued and revitalized two of the town's oldest and best-known landmarks.
At West's Dairy, Minnesota-raised Jeff Miller has kept the ice cream and added smoothies and espresso drinks to the menu and leather chairs in which customers can sit while reading the New York Times or working on laptops.
He's one milkman who used to practice international law at Citigroup in London, before he tired of the corporate world. He also helped renovate the McCormick House, named for the lumber baron who built it before moving on to the Pacific Northwest.
Today, the 1887 grand manor is one of several posh lodgings in Hayward.
Trip Tips: Hayward, Wisconsin
Getting there: It's 2½ hours northeast of the Twin Cities.
© Beth Gauper
Everyone wants to see Hayward's giant muskie, whose toothy mouth is a favorite spot for weddings.
Sept. 19, Chequamegon Fat Tire Festival. Sept. 20, CAMBA Fat Tire Tour. Sept. 26, Fall Festival and Birkie Trail Run & Trek.
For more about the Lumberjack Championships and logging era, see Hayward's lumberjacks.
Accommodations: The McCormick House, a block from downtown, has six lovely rooms, and the rates include breakfast made to order.
Rooms include Internet access, high-definition televisions and DVD players and digital direct-dial telephones. There's a gas fireplace in the library, a comfortable gathering spot, and a large hot tub on the back deck, overlooking an English garden. Check for special deals and packages. Call 715-934-3339.
The handsomely restored 1923 Spider Lake Lodge, half an hour east of town, has seven rooms, and rates include breakfast. It's very popular; reserve at 800-653-9472.
Well located for Birkie skiers, Forest Moon B&B on County Road 00 has four rooms.
North of town in Seeley, the Lenroot Lodge has 10 attractive rooms and is next to Mooselips Java Joint, 715-634-7007.
Dining: The pleasant Angry Minnow on Florida Avenue serves its own beers as well as many sandwiches and such dishes as cedar plank mango salmon, grilled duck, pork tenderloin with black-bean salsa and rib-eye. 715-934-3055.
Backroads Coffee & Tea serves sandwiches, and Coop's Pizza is a longtime favorite.
In summer, Angler's Bar & Grill has a beer garden on Main Street downtown.
© Beth Gauper
The McCormick House, built by a lumber baron, now is a luxurious bed-and-breakfast inn.
Shopping: In winter, most shops are closed Sunday. Book World, which has a very good selection of regional books, stays open, as does Outdoor Ventures, an excellent ski and outdoor apparel shop, and Antiques on 2nd, which has a very nice selection of north-woods pieces.
Sightseeing: The Moccasin Bar downtown is a hoot, and now that Wisconsin has a smoking ban, you can breathe there. See Cal Johnson's record muskie — it's about the size of a skinny sixth-grader — and dozens of stuffed bear cubs, beavers and posed chipmunks playing poker, drinking beer and singing barbershop ditties in glass cases along the walls.
Mountain biking: The forests between Hayward and Cable may be the best place in the Upper Midwest to ride singletrack. For more about the CAMBA mountain-biking trails, see On a roll in Hayward and Cable.
Golfing: Hayward has a lot of great courses — Hayward Golf Club, Big Fish, Hayward National and Teal Wing. For details, see Swinging through northern Wisconsin: Hayward.
Nightlife: There's often live entertainment at the Pavilion, which has a tapas bar and monthly sushi nights; in summer, there's belly dancing.
Backroads Coffee & Tea sometimes has entertainment. In Seeley, Mooselips Java Joint sometimes has music, and Friday is martini night, 4-9 p.m., 715-634-5660.
Skiing: There are many kilometers of cross-country ski trails.
Sports rentals: New Moon, on U.S. 63 just north of town, rents and sells skis and mountain bikes.
Information: Hayward Lakes tourism, 800-724-2992.
Last updated on July 13, 2015
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