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Under one roof in Duluth

On a cold-weather getaway, friends indulge in chocolate, craft beer and massages.

Fitger's brewery complex in Duluth.

© Beth Gauper

The old Fitger's brewery now houses shops, restaurants, a brewpub and a day spa.

In summer and fall, festive Canal Park draws the crowds. But when cold winds blow in winter, a brewery suddenly looks much better.

Started in 1882 as Fink's Lake Superior Brewery, Fitger's was a mainstay in Duluth, surviving Prohibition but not industry consolidation. It closed in 1972 and almost was  razed, but the sprawling building on the lake reopened in 1984 as a hotel, restaurant and shopping complex.

Now, the complex also boasts a day spa, a nightclub, a brewery, a coffeehouse and shops — everything anyone could want for a little getaway, all under one roof.

My friend Judy and I drove up on a gray Wednesday in November, stopping first at the Depot for the free monthly antique appraisal.

Appraiser Dan Sershon couldn't muster much interest in the plates Judy had brought, but when we asked him to tell us the most interesting thing he'd seen, he looked over our shoulders and said, "That lamp that's going to come up next.''

It was an Arts and Crafts lamp, with acorn finials and a forest scene painted onto a glass shade that sprang to life when lit.

"These things didn't sell for that much money then, but this generation is much more interested in them,'' he said, estimating a value of at least $1,500-$2,500.

After stopping to shop on Superior Street, we dropped our bags at Fitger's. Then we walked down the hall to the Brewhouse and treated ourselves to a turkey Cobb sandwich and a Greek salad with zucchini-stuffed phyllo turnovers.

"That was really restorative,'' Judy said. "I'm the queen of the Cobb, and that was one of the best I've had.''

Then we walked downstairs to the day spa, where Judy went off to have a manicure and pedicure and I eased myself onto a heated massage table, where a young masseuse began digging the stress out of my shoulders.

"Can you feel it crackling in there?'' she asked. "It's like marbles under my fingers.''

Kneading my feet, she said it's true that energy forces connect the feet to other parts of the body.

"These are the lungs, and you can tell when people smoke because it's pretty crunchy in there,'' she said. "Yeah, it's crazy.''

She gave the kind of no-nonsense massage I like, and after 30 minutes with her, I wished I’d asked for 60 minutes. Instead, I went to another nook of the old brewery, where I received a facial that was competent but lackluster.

Back in the main part of the spa, where a copper vat protrudes from the ceiling, Judy showed me her newly restored hands.

Walking by Fitger's on Duluth's Lakewalk.

© Beth Gauper

The Lakewalk connects Fitger's to Canal Park.

"We've been stripping things at home, and they were a mess, but now I'm on the path to righteousness,'' she said. "Now I wonder how I went out of the house like that.''

As Judy soaked her feet, the esthetician overheard me ask about the hand paraffin wax and jumped up.

"I'm going to give you one, come on,'' she said, leading me to a tub full of liquid paraffin. She told me to dip my hands four times, then wrapped them in plastic bags and terrycloth mitts. When they were dry, she peeled off the soft wax and squirted Aveda Hand Relief into my palms, leaving the skin as soft as a baby’s.

Judy’s feet had been softened up, too.

"Now I have happy, happy toes,’’ she said. “That was an A plus pedicure. It was so worth it.’’

She left the spa in flip-flops, to let her toenail polish harden, and we wandered through the nearby shops — the Bookstore, which sells Fitger's pint glasses and T-shirts; the Snow Goose, a gift shop and sole survivor of the shops that opened in 1984; and TrailFitters, which caters to outdoorsy types.

Midi Restaurant & Wine Bar is the place to go for fine dining, but the Brewhouse is such a convivial place we couldn’t resist returning there for dinner. Lake Superior Brewing Co. made Fitger's a real brewery again in 1994, but it outgrew the building and moved; now, the Brewhouse serves its own lagers, stouts and IPAs.

We sampled them in 10-ounce glasses and ate a mushroom-Swiss burger and fish and chips. After a while, musician Charlie Parr arrived and began playing a lively brand of blues.

For a Wednesday in November, there was a lot going on. Across the hall, novice salsa dancers were getting lessons at the Red Star Lounge, a sliver of a room that makes up for its size with its sleek design.

The next morning was mild, so we nabbed some pastries from Fitger’s continental buffet and went strolling along the Lakewalk to Canal Park.

Judy and I had split our half-day package into two days, so we went back to the spa. Judy went for a massage, and I went to get a makeup lesson, since I hadn't changed my beauty routine since I was 12. As the aesthetician brushed color around my eyes, she discussed concepts of beauty.

“I think it's really sad to try to get rid of wrinkles; I'd rather accent what you have,’’ she said. "Only in America do you have this extreme pressure to keep extreme youth. In other countries, growing old gracefully is an art form passed down from generation to generation. We've lost that, but it’s starting to come back. People get tired of Botox.’’

Boats anchored off Canal Park.

© Beth Gauper

In fall, salties wait on Lake Superior for their turn to load grain in the harbor.

Then we had lunch, watching the arrival of the Canadian Olympic from the picture window next to our table.

Our last stop was DeWitt-Seitz Marketplace, where we bought chocolate ore boats and chocolate-almond toffee at Hepzibah's.

It’s almost too easy to indulge yourself in Duluth. Learning how to age gracefully with beer and chocolate — now there's a concept that could take off.

Trip Tips: Duluth spa getaway

Getting there: It's 2½ hours north of the Twin Cities.

Fitger's Salon & Spa: This spa in the Fitgers complex offers half-day and full-day packages. The half day includes three choices, such as 30-minute relaxation massage, manicure/pedicure and hand paraffin wax; the full day adds either a body polish, body wrap, hot-stone therapy or 90-minute relaxation massage.

Guests of Fitger’s get a 20 percent discount on products and services.

Antique appraisals: On third Wednesdays from noon to 3 p.m., free appraisals of one or two items are given at the Depot in downtown Duluth, 218-733-7586.

Accommodations: If you want a room and a spa under the same roof, stay at Fitger's, 888-348-4377.

If you have a Minnesota Public Radio Member Connect card, however, you'll get a second night for half off from November through May and midweek June through October.

However, Fitger's doesn't offer midweek specials, serve a hot breakfast or have a pool, hot tub or sauna. For other places to stay and general information, see Duluth 101.

In the off season, check the Hot Deals page of Visit Duluth. If you're an AAA member, be sure to ask for the discount.

Dining: In Fitger's, the Brewhouse is a friendly and cozy pub with good food. Midi Restaurant has lake views and serves Mediterranean fusion cuisine.

Next door, the Pickwick Restaurant & Pub, family-owned since 1914, has a big menu of steaks, ribs, chops and seafood. It's closed Sundays.

On Superior Street, Restaurant 301 at the Sheraton is very good.

For more, see Where to eat in Duluth.

Nightlife: The Barrel Room, across from the Brewhouse, and Rex Nightclub, on the lower level, show sports games and offer music.

Shopping: Fitger's has good apparel shops, a bookstore and kitchenware shop. In DeWitt-Seitz Marketplace, the Art Dock carries the work of many local artisans and Hepzibah's has specialty sweets, including chocolate Lake Superior pebbles.

Details: For more, see Duluth stories.

Last updated on September 20, 2016