Excursion to Stillwater
This historic Minnesota river town is a favorite weekend getaway.
© Beth Gauper
Chestnut Street, where cars enter Stillwater from Wisconsin, always is busy.
After more than 150 years, this Minnesota river town's unrefined early days are history.
Once, legions of unkempt lumberjacks mobbed the streets of Stillwater, spending their wages at saloons and bordellos. Now, mobs of weekend tourists roam through town, sipping cappuccinos, sampling wine and shopping for gifts and antiques.
Stillwater has come a long way since the days when King Pine ruled. Reminders of the era are everywhere, however, in mills that now house antiques malls and splendid Victorian houses.
Many of the lumber barons' houses now are bed-and-breakfasts and still carry their names — Bean, Sauntry, Staples.
But a walk along any Stillwater street will yield a bumper crop of other painted ladies, complete with turrets, cupolas, gables and wrap-around porches.
On Main Street, old brick storefronts showcase gift shops and restaurants, and hundreds of dealers operate out of the many antiques stores.
With its high-level shopping and high-level lodgings — most of the rooms in the town's B&Bs are lavishly appointed, with such features as fireplaces and double whirlpools — Stillwater is a popular destination for couples.
But people of all kinds enjoy a ride on the motorized red trolleys that chug up and down Stillwater's hills, with narrators explaining the colorful history of the town, and why Stillwater calls itself Minnesota's birthplace: not because it was the first town, but because it hosted the 1848 convention that made Minnesota a territory.
Older people make return visits to the 1927 Lowell Inn, the scene of many honeymoons, anniversaries and birthdays. Stillwater still is a popular place to stage important occasions.
Younger folks patronize the bars, stroll along the riverfront on warm evenings and churn up the St. Croix River on paddlewheeler party boats, which look much like excursion steamers of a century ago.
© Beth Gauper
The Stillwater Trolley takes passengers through Lowell Park on the St. Croix River.
Even children like Stillwater. Up on Second Street, they can play at Pioneer Park, a tiny square with a vast view of the St. Croix River Valley, or at charming Teddy Bear Park at Second and Nelson streets.
The park has a miniature Lift Bridge, a hollowed-out tree, a toy train and other fun play structures.
On Main Street, families can stop at sunny Leo's for a malt and a burger.
And in summer, everyone enjoys the festive air of Stillwater streets — one more thing that hasn't changed since lumberjack days.
Trip Tips: Historic Stillwater, Minnesota
Getting there: On beautiful summer and fall weekends, the stretch of Minnesota 95 that leads into Stillwater from the south often is congested. Go early in the day to avoid the worst.
People coming from the Twin Cities via Minnesota 36 can use one of two shortcuts: Manning Avenue to Minnesota 96, which leads to Minnesota 95 north of downtown; or Osgood Avenue to Third Street.
There are many parking lots along Second Street between Nelson and Mulberry streets and between Water Street and the riverfront.
On Wednesday evenings in summer, there's Cruisin' on the Croix in Lowell Park, with vintage cars and '50s music.
Accommodations: The new 40-room boutique Lora Hotel is set into the cliffside on the south end of Main Street.
Stillwater is well-supplied with B&Bs in historic Victorians, all with luxuries that include double whirlpools and fireplaces.
Members of the Stillwater Bed & Breakfast Association are the 1890 William Sauntry Mansion, 800-828-2653; the 1878 Ann Bean Mansion, 651-430-0355; the 1883 Elephant Walk, 888-430-0359; and the 1895 Lady Goodwood.
The 1890 Sauntry Mansion B&B is a classic painted lady.
Dining: In the Lora Hotel, Feller has a patio and features sophisticated cuisine featuring grass-fed, wild and foraged ingredients. Pearl and the Thief features oysters and modern takes on Southern comfort food.
Domacin Restaurant & Wine Bar is just off Main on Second Street and features a Mediterranean-influenced menu.
Leo's Grill & Malt Shop is a good place to have lunch with kids. For a picnic, pick up sandwiches from the River Market deli at 221 N. Main St., and take them up North Second Street to Pioneer Park.
Shopping: Main Street is lined with interesting shops, many selling antiques, gifts and home decor. For more, see Bargain-hunting in Stillwater.
Trolley tours: The Stillwater Trolley Co. offers 45-minute narrated tours daily from May through October, hourly from 10 a.m. on weekends.
Tours also are given on nice weekends in April and November. Trolleys leave from behind the Freight House Restaurant. 651-430-0352.
Boat tours: The St. Croix Boat & Packet Co. gives public lunch and dinner cruises on four paddlewheelers, 651-430-1234.
Gondola tours: Gondola Romantica gondoliers row passengers along the St. Croix in a real Venetian gondola.
Wine tour: Northern Vineyards on Main Street offers daily tastings that cost $5, refundable with purchase. Pick up a picnic at River Market deli next door and have it with wine on the deck, which overlooks the river. 651-430-1032.
Information: Stillwater tourism, 651-351-1717.
Last updated on October 27, 2018