Telemark's next act
In northwest Wisconsin, a fabled ski resort tries to claw its way back.
© Jodi Stammer
Racers climb the notoriously hilly Birkie Trail.
What becomes a legend most? In the case of Telemark Resort in northwest Wisconsin, solvency.
The once-busy ski lodge closed in 1998, reopened in 1999, closed again in 2010, reopened in January 2011, and closed once more in 2013.
The lodge, which polite guests call "a diamond in the rough,'' desperately needs updating.
In November 2017, it was sold once more to HK Hospitality Management of Florida, which said it hopes to modernize, enhance and reopen the resort as a year-round vacation destination in 2019.
While there's precious little polish on the building, the snow-kissed location has plenty of luster. The 50-kilometer Birkie Trail is out the door, the lovely Rock Lake Trail is down the road and Chequamegon National Forest rolls for miles to the north and west, studded with lakes and waterfalls.
People love Telemark, started in 1947 by the legendary Tony Wise, and they don't want to lose it.
"So many people have history with it,'' says local resident Susan Fibert. "They say, 'I learned to ski there,' or 'I met my wife there.' Telemark is the place you absolutely know.''
It's the spiritual home of cross-country skiers, especially those who were there in the sport's infancy.
"I was really emotional when it closed,'' said Phil Van Valkenberg, who has skied 30 Birkies and three Kortelopets and was Telemark's marketing director for four years after it reopened in 1999. "I've spent half my life there. It was the end of Tony's dream and the end of my dream.''
Tony Wise was the visionary who made northwest Wisconsin a sports mecca. Born in the depressed logging town of Hayward, he wanted to revive his hometown, and while he was stationed in alpine Bavaria after the war, he found a way.
Wise picked a likely hill and opened Mount Telemark. It drew alpine skiers from all over the Midwest, and in 1972, Wise built a grand lodge, with 200 rooms, pools, a theater and ballrooms in which national entertainers performed.
He also added cross-country trails. His 50-kilometer American Birkebeiner, started in 1973, became the best-known ski race in North America, drawing elite athletes from all over the world as well as thousands of recreational skiers.
But while he was putting Hayward and Cable on the map, Tony Wise was going broke. His vision was too grand for this little hill, far from the big cities, and the Rockies were taking his skiers away.
He lost Telemark and died in 1995. When the resort reopened the first time, it kept only a small tubing and snowboarding hill, in addition to its cross-country system.
Its new owners were the people who owned time-share intervals at its condos and villas, and many were die-hard Birkie skiers.
It was part of Tony Wise's genius that, at a time when cross-country skiing still was in its infancy in this country, he appropriated the Birkebeiner glory — a glory that, when marathon skiers finish, they feel they've earned for themselves.
There are references to the legend all around the lodge, where a massive bronze relief of a 13th-century Norwegian warrior hangs over the 55-foot fieldstone fireplace.
The story is that, during a civil war in 1206, royal partisans rescued the infant grandson of the late King Sverre from enemy territory, skiing 55 kilometers to safety.
The warriors were members of a political faction called Birkebeiners, named because they once were so poor that, when their trousers wore out, they tied pieces of birch bark around their legs.
The rescue is commemorated today in Norway with a race betwen Lillehammer and Rena, in which competitors ski with a pack that weighs 12 pounds, like the little prince, who became King Haakon IV.
My friend Adele, with whom I visited Telemark after it reopened the first time, loved the romantic story.
"I never understood the mystique behind the Birkebeiner before,'' she said. "I knew it was a big deal, but this gives me a much better sense of what it's about.''
As soon as we got to the resort, we headed out along the 6-kilometer John Bauer Trail. It was unusually challenging for an intermediate trail, but the forest was gorgeous that day, with white-pine needles creating a pixillated effect against crisp blue sky.
After a couple of rides down the tubing hill, we went to soothe our muscles in the hot tub, where we talked to a Birkie skier from Madison who was there on a couples package with her husband.
"They could do so much with this place,'' she said. "The trails are great. And the tubing is so much fun; it made me feel like a kid again.''
Our room was comfortable but unrenovated, with orange furniture and cabinetry, but Adele thought it was cute: "I like it to look a little retro,'' she said.
After we left the next morning, we drove six miles down the road to the Forest Service's Rock Lake Trail system, where we skied a lovely 4-kilometer loop that rose and fell through thick forest.
In the summer, the Rock Lake Trail is one of the most notorious parts of the CAMBA mountain-biking trails, more than 300 miles of marked and mapped routes through forest.
Tony Wise had a hand in that, too; in 1983, he helped start the Chequamegon Fat Tire Festival, which became the largest mountain-biking event of its kind. Today, the CAMBA routes often are included on national lists of best trails.
© Beth Gauper
A hiker walks the Forest Lodge Nature Trail in spring.
There's snowshoeing and hiking on the North Country National Scenic Trail; one of its premier segments is the six-mile Porcupine Lake hike between Cable and Drummond.
There's paddling on Lake Namekagon and the Namekagon River and world-famous musky fishing in the flowages and lakes.
The area has one of the region's best displays of fall color, and in autumn, motorists come to drive the three mapped routes.
The endless slate of things to do prompted former marketing director Van Valkenberg to promote Telemark as the "Outdoor Adventure Base."
"It's not the Ritz,'' he said. "But it sure is a good base for having fun.''
Trip Tips: Cable and Telemark Resort in northern Wisconsin
Getting there: It's two miles east of Cable on County Road M.
Accommodations: Newer condos, rented by their owners, still are available.
© Jodi Stammer
Telemark is the finish for the 23-kilometer Kortelopet.
The new owners plan to keep the lodge and build new guest lodgings.
Dining: Eight miles farther east on County Road M, Garmisch USA has a cozy German restaurant overlooking Lake Namekagon.
In town, The Rivers Eatery serves excellent 9-inch thin-crust pizzas baked in a stone oven. It also sells craft beers and wine and is the gathering spot for local silent-sports aficionados.
Skiing: Volunteers groom the resort's own trails, which connect to the 50-kilometer Birkie Trail, groomed for classic and skating. Nearby, the lovely, intimate Rock Lake Trail has 42 kilometers of rolling loops and is classic-only.
Mountain biking: The CAMBA trails
include more than 300 miles of marked and mapped routes.
Hiking: The Forest Lodge Nature Trail and Rock Lake Trail are east of Cable off County Road M. The North Country National Scenic Trail includes 60 miles through Chequamegon National Forest.
In fall, there's a great view of the colorful treetops from St. Peter's
Dome, a relatively easy 3½-mile round-trip hike that also passes Morgan
Falls, a 70- to 100-foot flume that zigzags down from one red-granite
ledge to another in a forest clearing.
The trailhead is 22
miles north of Cable on Minnesota 63. At County Road E, drive six
miles east to Ashland-Bayfield Road. Turn south and drive 4.2 miles to
the parking lot.