MidwestWeekends.com — Your Travel Guide to the Upper Midwest


On the rocks in the Ozarks

In spring, southeast Missouri is heaven for hikers, paddlers and rockhounds.

Only a day's drive from Minnesota lies a world as old as the glacier-cut north woods are new.

Here, in the foothills of a worn-down mountain range, elephantine boulders stand in herds. 

In riverbeds, billion-year-old slabs are as slippery smooth as clay just pressed by a toddler’s thumb. 

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Floating Missouri

In the down-home Ozarks, explore paddle rivers and picturesque springs.

After a long, hard winter, the sight of blooming forsythia can be intoxicating. And a butterfly? That must be just a fleeting dream.

My  daughter spotted those things plus a robin soon after we arrived in Missouri for spring break, and they were enough to make her giddy with excitement.

"Oh, I like this place,'' she cried. "I like the way it looks, the warm spring air, the way it smells. And oh, look, some nice spring grass!''

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The last Little House

Laura Ingalls Wilder's home in rural Missouri was the final stop on a famously winding path.

Mansfield, Mo., has never been a particularly prosperous town. Lying in the heart of the Ozarks, its landscape is bucolic but barely fertile.

In 1894, however, a stream of people seeking better lives was flowing through this Gem City of the Ozarks, and among them was 27-year-old Laura Ingalls Wilder, who had traveled in a horse-drawn hack from De Smet, S.D., with her husband, Almanzo, and their daughter, Rose.

As a child, Laura had zigzagged across the Midwest with her family, dogged by failure. Her life with Almanzo seemed similarly destined: Two years after they married, their barn barned.

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Missouri's memories

After 150 years, the Civil War still haunts the western part of the state, long terrorized by jayhawkers and bushwackers.

In April 1861, the first shots of the Civil War were fired at Fort Sumter in South Carolina.

The most famous battles that followed — Bull Run, Antietam, Gettysburg, Shiloh — were in the East. 

But after Virginia and Tennessee, the most fought-over state was Missouri, which suffered 45 percent of all casualties.

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