• Duluth rocks!

    With a pizza train, bike path and beaches lined with boulders, this is a great town for kids.

    In Duluth, you can lead a child to water — but just try leading her away. "Mom, it'd be worth moving to Duluth just so we could go to this beach a lot,'' said my daughter Madeleine, jumping from rock to rock at Brighton Beach. Duluth is one of the best places in Minnesota to take children. On Canal Park, the lineup of tourist attractions can keep a family entertained for days.

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  • Duluth's grand mansion

    At Glensheen, tourists walk into the life of an extraordinary family.

    It took a servant a day and a half to polish one of their chandeliers. It took three Norwegian craftsmen three years to carve their woodwork. Still, it's hard to begrudge Chester and Clara Congdon their nice things, because apparently they were very nice people. Chester gave 11 miles of Lake Superior shoreline to the people of Duluth and made sure it was preserved for them in perpetuity. Clara donated her time and resources to the Methodist church; her servants ate the same meals she did and were paid twice as much as others.

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  • Dunes of Duluth

    At the foot of Lake Superior, a windswept spit of sand draws beach bums and boat nerds.

    Most people don't think of Duluth as a beach town. It's a little chilly, for one thing. But the port city has six miles of sandy beach along the largest freshwater sandbar in the world. Just over the Aerial Lift Bridge, Park Point is where Duluthians play. They hike and run on a two-mile trail through forest and dunes. They paddle canoes and kayaks. They hang out on the beach, watching waves in winter and braving them in summer.

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  • Hawk heaven

    On a ridgetop in Duluth, birders watch for hawks, eagles and peregrine falcons.

    On Duluth's Hawk Ridge, a bird in the hand is worth at least two in the sky. They're impressive when spotted overhead. But up close, it's easier to get to know a bird — say, the northern goshawk, a fierce predator whose image once adorned the helmet of Attila the Hun. As she held a young goshawk by the legs, naturalist Willow Maser struggled to make herself heard above its high-pitched screeches.

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  • Cross-country skiing in Duluth

    When snow falls, skiers fly onto a splendid system of groomed trails.

    One March, I went up to Duluth but woke up in Siberia. Twenty inches of snow had fallen overnight. A savage 70 mph wind was howling around the glass-walled lobby of the Willard Munger Inn. Swirling snow had turned the air white.

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  • Walking in Duluth

    Trails along creeks, ravines and bays provide stellar hiking in the heart of town.

    A few steps into the forest, and it hit. The tang of cedar bark and pine needles, moistened by droplets of mist from waterfalls. The loamy richness of earth carpeted by ferns. It was that north-woods perfume all Minnesotans instantly recognize, a powerful eau de outdoors that gladdened my heart and also made it sink with the realization that I'd stayed in the city far, far too long.

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  • Hiking in Duluth

    In Duluth, hiking trails are easy to reach and amazingly scenic.

    It's a city of 86,000, after all. But this hillside town, once called the San Francisco of the North, has spectacular terrain for trails, along glacial beach terraces high above Lake Superior and on creeks that tumble down rocky ravines. Many hikers blow through Duluth on their way to sections of the Superior Hiking Trail farther up the North Shore. But the 43 miles that cross Duluth provide the most concentrated scenery on the entire trail, lake views and waterfalls included.

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  • Duluth's twin in Wisconsin

    Scratch the surface of Duluth's homely twin and see it sparkle.

    To most people, Superior, Wis., is nothing more than a series of traffic lights to endure on the fast track to the Apostle Islands or Upper Peninsula. It's sprawling, ugly and utterly devoid of interest. Or is it?

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  • On the water in West Duluth

    On the once-gritty St. Louis River, boaters and birders enjoy the scenery.

    lot of water — beyond the big lake and the Aerial Lift Bridge. Fishermen and bird-watchers have frequented it for years, and more are showing up as the water becomes cleaner. Sturgeon have come back, eagles nest, and 70 percent of the birds seen in Minnesota come through on fall and spring migrations.

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  • Duluth's other waterfront

    The quiet St. Louis River is a hub for hikers, bikers, paddlers and train buffs.

    Once, a wind-whipped sand spit was not the most desirable address in Duluth. Today, tourists want to hang out on Canal Park and stay in beach cottages on Park Point, just beyond the Aerial Lift Bridge. But the Ojibwe preferred the calmer estuary of the St. Louis River, which flows into Lake Superior at what today is Duluth-Superior Harbor.

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  • Swimming holes of Duluth

    In this Lake Superior town, the rivers are the place to cool off.

    In Duluth, there's water, water everywhere — and nary a place to swim. In Lake Superior, anyway. If you try to cool off in the frigid lake, you'll probably run out immediately, shrieking. Early tourist brochures touted Duluth as "The Air-Conditioned City," and the vast waters of the big lake keep it cool, usually until July. Then it heats up, and the locals — few of whom have actual air conditioners — head for water.

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  • Relishing winter in Duluth

    In this sporty town, you can ski downhill or cross-country, then see the ballet or a Broadway show — all within city limits.

    When it's not cold or snowy enough in Duluth, the natives start to grumble. The breezes that earned it the nickname "Air-Conditioned City'' will chill your bones in winter, and if you don't keep moving, you'll wind up as stiff as the bronze sculptures along the lake.

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  • Quaffing with a crowd

    At craft-brew fests, fans converge to try the latest concoctions.

    Twenty years ago, most beer drinkers thought porters work on the railroad, blondes have more fun and a craft requires popsicle sticks and yarn. My, how things have changed. In the United States, craft beer still claims only 13 percent of sales. But each year, more and more drinkers cross over from the lite side, and hundreds of new craft breweries spring up to serve them.

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  • Where to eat in Duluth

    Once famous for dives, this Lake Superior tourist magnet now boasts brewpubs and locavore cafes.

    The restaurants in this Lake Superior port town haven't always had a great reputation. But that's changed. Legions of tourists have brought pickier palates. Young new residents, lured from bigger cities by Duluth's outdoor scene, have brought a taste for craft beer and locally sourced ingredients. Now, you can eat well in Duluth.

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  • Living like a millionaire

    As guests, visitors get a look into Duluth's gilded past.

    In 1890, Duluth was a treasure chest waiting to be opened. It sat at the foot of Lake Superior, connected to the steel mills and cities of the East by water. White-pine forests lay to the south and west, and rich veins of iron ore to the north. It couldn't fail to make money for the men who came to tap its riches, and it didn't.

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  • Duluth 101

    Here's everything you need to know about visiting this lively port town on Lake Superior.

    Now, it's packed from summer through fall, and rooms at its hotels and B&Bs can be hard to come by. It's a Cinderella story, really.

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  • Boat watching in Duluth

    In a Lake Superior port town, tourists hang on the latest shipping news.

    When the ore boats start arriving in Duluth, the tourists soon follow. Fifty years ago, ships were part of the industrial landscape on Canal Park, and no one thought they were all that romantic. But things have changed. Today, these hulking big boats are to Duluth what killer whales are to Sea World. Because, boy, do they make people come running.

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  • The season's first ships

    When the Great Lakes shipping season starts, boat nerds watch for salties.

    Like robins and maple sap, Lake Superior ore boats aren't much affected by the never-ending winter that humans find so annoying. Toward the end of March, ice-breakers arrive to clear the shipping lanes, allowing the first boats to leave winter layup, kicking off the spring shipping season. Then traffic starts to move within Lake Superior, and when the Soo Looks open on March 25, boats arrive from other Great Lakes.

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  • Duluth's Skyline Parkway

    High above Lake Superior, a scenic boulevard was the city's first playground.

    It's a hot Saturday in Duluth, and it seems as if every tourist in town is on Canal Park. But a few have found their way to a quieter spot, on Amity Creek above downtown. Just off Skyline Parkway, some 10-year-olds are having a great time climbing rocks and splashing in a pool beside a waterfall, thanks to a mother who went to college in Duluth. She's brought her daughter's soccer team to play and cool off between tournament games.

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